They turned up when I moved my display cabinet.
The piece on the left is from GWR 2022 jigsaw puzzle. It has one less missing piece now. :lol:
The piece on the right, I've donated the puzzle away already. Can tell from the edges that it has been soaked in water — condensate water from the study room air-con. It was drained directly to the balcony floor. A proper pipe is now installed.
The good:
The not-so-good:
Anyway, the original plan was not quite feasible. This is about as good as it gets.
The bad:
The ugly:
Now that I think about it, 4x2.5" should be enough for one set of pipes, and 4x3" for two sets. 4x4" is overkill.
Overall, I'm happy with the installation.
First impressions of the air-con:
Compressor issues:
A little regret didn't opt for Daikin:
My washing machine's door lock started to fail earlier this year. The WM could lock the door, but it was unable to unlock it. You have to keep trying to make it open/close the door (by pressing the Start button) and it will eventually release.
It recovered after I sprayed WD-40 into the door lock, so I thought it was fixed. It came back again after a few months. No problem, I thought, just spray WD-40. Except it did not work this time.
In an attempt to adjust the door lock, I dislodged it instead. Now the door could not close securely. The WM did not detect the door was closed, so it refused to start.
I could open up the WM and put the door sensor back, but it would be quite troublesome to do so. I have never opened up a WM before, so it may take some time.
My WM does not have a manual door lock release. When this started to happen, I googled to see how to open the door manually. I thought it was a standard feature. Well, not for my model. If there is a manual door release, I could have continued to use my WM.
Time to shop for a new model.
My requirements are simple:
The make is not important, but since my current make is Electrolux, I'll go with it. I read its quality is now much poorer, though.
I quickly settled on the equivalent model, the Electrolux 8kg UltimateCare 300, priced at $649. This is the B model, there is a newer C model at $849. As far as I can tell, the main difference is that the older model has Full Wash 60, but the new one has Full Wash 45. The number indicates the time in mins. Some programs are also different.
Is 15 mins faster worth $200? It is one spin cycle less, so will save water as well.
But the B model has Daily 39, so it can be faster. In fact, I find the B model to be more flexible: Quick 15, Daily 39, Full Wash 60 and Mixed (2 hours). The C model has Quick 15 and Full Wash 45 only.
I decided it was good enough. Gain City has same-day delivery for $50, so I opted for it.
Aside: Gain City Megastore @ Sungei Kadut is 11 storey high and has roof access (it is an open-air carpark). It has almost 360 degree view. Can see pretty far cos nearby buildings are all low-rise. Worth a visit.
My original model has Mixed (2 hours), Quick Mixed (1 hour), Quick Delicate (34 mins), Quick (20 mins). The new model does not have Quick Mixed (use Full Wash 60), nor Quick Delicate (use Daily 39). The biggest limitation for me is that it cannot use cold water for Full Wash 60 and Daily 39 (min 30°C).
On the plus side, the new model supports 1200 RPM spin (previously 800 RPM max) and 50°C and 90°C water (previously 60°C max).
Electrolux Vapour Action 7.5 kg, ~13 years, died before its time was up. RIP.
The air-con man came down for an onsite survey.
Good news first.
Only need 15A switch. Does not need dedicated thick wire. It does mean all the power points linked to that wire, and ultimately to the CB, can only support 20A concurrently. He said no problem, the air-con uses ~9A at most, the others won't add up to 3A. I'm not so sure — I don't know how many outlets the wire is shared with.
Piping is straightforward. There are several possible places to place the FCUs, but the original proposed places are the most convenient and straightforward.
The compressor is placed outside the study room. The study room FCU will be put in the same place, but shifted up (after removing the original trunking) so that living room pipe can pass straight under it. No L-shape bend needed. Every bend is a weak point.
The living room FCU will be placed on the same wall as the study room FCU, so its pipes pass through a hole to the study room directly. No trunking in living room. This is the most optimal from aesthetics POV.
The condensate is drained at the balcony just like before. There is already an opening from the study room to the living room to the balcony. It takes this long path because the wall between the study room and the balcony is a beam wall.
The air-con man recommended using 24k BTU for the living room. Even though it is L-shape, he said it is sufficient and do not need to use 2 FCUs. I feel 18k is enough, but it is true my living room shape is non-optimal. The living room is linked to the doorway, balcony, corridor, kitchen and even service balcony! Basically everywhere except the rooms and common toilet. I'll probably need to install door curtains.
So, will use 24k and 9k BTU FCUs and a 28k outdoor unit. 28k is a little under-powered because I intend to turn on both at the same time.
Mitsubishi vs Daikin, will choose Mitsubishi this time. Read Daikin quality has gone down, don't know true or not.
On my existing air-con system, he said it is possible to reuse the piping. He said R32 gas can use SWG 23 pipe (0.61 mm wall thickness), though the norm is SWG 22 (0.71 mm). I find it strange cos the recommended grade for R32 is SWG 21 (0.81 mm).
Anyway, he looked at the trunking layout and said the pipes can be changed, no problem. The concealed sections are all straight paths, so the pipes can be pushed through. I'm not sure if the existing trunking is wide enough, though. My existing trunking is 4x3", modern ones are 4x4" for 2 sets.
My home's air-con system is on its last leg.
The compressor died in Jul 2018, I replaced it. The compressor fan broke in Apr 2023, I replaced it.
One day, I found the compressor did not turn off after all FCUs were turned off — the compressor sound was unmistakable. It turned out only the fan was spinning, so it did not consume much power, but it was definitely not normal. Turning off and on the isolator switch did not work. This went away on its own one day, but it came back from time to time.
A few months ago, the study room's FCU malfunctioned. The compressor would keep working for around an hour until it overheated. It would work again after it cooled down — after an hour or more. Normally the compressor has a XY-min cycle (on for X mins, off for Y mins). The air-con technician found that the sensor was 'wet', so he dried it. It worked for a couple of weeks, then the problem came back.
I've always wanted to change the air-con, but the biggest obstacle is replacing the pipes. There are 3 possibilities:
Also, if I wanted to install a FCU in the living room, I either have to do without air-con in one of the rooms or get System 5.
The first is no-go. However, System-5 outdoor unit is also said to be too big/heavy for HDB flats.
There is another — uglier — way. I see some flats install the outdoor unit on their front facade. It is ugly, but it is the most straightforward way to add air-con to the living room and study room — the pipes will be very short.
Will most likely need to run a thicker wire from the Circuit Breaker and add a 20A isolator switch.
I prefer to get System-2 to cool both living room and study room. Two likely configurations:
My living room is L-shaped, so by right will need 24k BTU or two 12k BTU FCUs. I don't like both options.
When my existing air-con system fails, I intend to change it from 20k BTU System-4 (2 simultaneous) to 28k BTU System-3 (3 simultaneous).